Corrida de Toros - Una Experiencia Española

Plaza de Toros

    I have always heard about the infamous bullfights in Spain, both in high cultural regard and as one of the cruelest mistreatments of animals in the world. Yesterday, a group of us were able to experience the Spanish tradition first hand and I must say it is something everyone should see once in their life. Just like everything else, you can't judge it until you have experienced it yourself.
   When we first got there, scalpers tried to sell us tickets mas barato mas barato (cheaper). It was just like walking into any sporting event in the US, guess the idea of scalping is universal. We figured the official tickets would be the best idea so we bought 13 euro tickets in the sol/sombra (sun/shade) which were good seats. We had an hour or so to kill until the fight so we found a fantastic heladeria Rayas - the helado was to die for, and I'll definitely be going back often. Around 6:30 we entered the plaza and found our seats. We soon realized the fight was an occasion to dress up for - the majority of women in dresses and men in oxfords and khakis (those not dressed up were easily recognizable as tourists). It was also interesting to note the number of small children there, bullfights are clearly a Sunday family affair.

Paseíllo

   At 7:00pm a live band began playing and the paseíllo or parade began. The parade is where each matador along with their team enters the arena. Thier team is made of six assistants including two picadores, three banderilleros, and a mozo de espadas (sword page). After the parade finishes, most clear the arena except for the matadors and the banderilleros. The first bull is then let into the stadium, clearly a bit confused as to what is going on.
 
     

     Stage 1: Tercia de Varas (the lancing third)

In the first stage, the bull is tested for it's ferocity by the matador and his/her banderilleros. Bulls are colorblind and only respond to the movement of the capes. This stage is when the matador first confronts the bull with the pink and gold cape and learns about his movements and temperament.  We watched as one of the first bulls decided to trip a banderillero and continue to roll him across the arena until another one distracted the bull. Next, two picadores enter the arena - men on horseback carrying lances. The horses are blindfolded and wear protective covering. As the bull rams the horse, the picador stabs the bull in the back in order to weaken its back muscles and if successful, the bull will hold its head/horns slightly lower for the remainder of the fight. The picadors stab the bull in this manner twice then exit the arena.  This signifies the end of the first stage.

Banderiellos

Picador

   Stage 2: Tercio de Banderillas (third of banderillas)

At this point, each of the three baderiellos attempts to place two banderiallas (sharp barbed sticks) into the bulls shoulders. These remain in the bull for the remainder of the fight. Their purpose is to further anger yet weaken the bull. I cannot imagine facing an angry bull head on and being able to accurately place the banderillas into its back. In my opinion, this stage shows an incredible deal of courage by the banderiellos.

Bull with banderillas.

   Stage 3: Tercio de Muerte (third of death)

In the third and final stage of the fight, the ultimate goal is death of the bull. The matador now enters the ring alone the with classic red cape. This stage of the fight is what most regard as an artform, and I have to say I agree. The matador performs a series of passes with the bull, sometimes extremely close to their body, showing total domination over the bull. It was incredible to see how close the matador comes to the bull yet remains in control over the animal. This control was lost at one point however for the second matador as the bull rammed the matador flipping him into the air. All of us gasped as we watched him fly through the air but somehow he landed safely, got up, and resumed his fight. It was unbelievable. Finally, in the last part of the fight, the matador attempts to maneuver the bull into a position where he can easily stab it. The matador attempts to stab the bull with his estoque (sword) between the shoulder blades and if successful, through the heart. The last matador, a female, was not strong enough to stab the sword completely into the bull (of course fulfilling the female stereotype). Nevertheless, once the sword is successfully stabbed into the bull, the matador waits until the bull falls to the ground at which points the crowd stands and erupts into cheers. The bull is then killed by a team member and dragged out of the arena.

Matador

Preparing for the Kill

 
  There are a total of three matadors that perform in each fight,  facing off against two bulls a piece. The fight we attended was a novillada de picadores, or an amateur fight. Clearly we were not able to tell they were amateurs. Apparently, these fights can prove to be more interesting because the amateurs tend to fight more dangerously because they are trying to become professionals.

   All in all, the Corrida de Toros was an interesting and worthwhile experience. While at times a bit gruesome, it is such a rich and prominent part of Spanish culture. I'm extremely glad I had the opportunity to experience one firsthand. However, I am surprised PETA has not done more to try and shut them down. Apparently they are outlawed in some areas now, including Barcelona. I asked my Senora if she thought they would be prohibited in Sevilla, and she said no, that's not possible.

Whether you find it to be a facinating art form, or simply an animal bloodbath, bullfights are undoubtedly an elaborate display of Spanish culture and something you must see for yourself in order to formulate your own opinions.